Friday, February 11, 2011

Duckie Brown Fall 2011

The menswear designer duo Duckie Brown is known for taking bold risks on the runway, subverting traditional menswear. Think sequins, three-arm sweaters.

And sometimes for subverting any chances of mainstream success for their small label.

On Thursday, the designers put on a show that again turned traditional menswear on its head. The pearl sweatshirt with a big scoop neck early on in the show, for example.

The show also subverted audience expectations.There were flannel “wrap” trousers that looked part drapey-dress, part pant, and fun, shaggy shearling fur coats that brought Muppets to my mind.

There were also some sharply tailored three-button sportcoats, a black cashmere “Crombie” coat and the final look, a dreamy camel cashmere “wrap” coat, that some audience members, who are used to the duo’s more artful impulses, probably weren’t expecting to see in a Duckie Brown show.

The pull and push between fashion as commerce and fashion as an artistic pursuit that played out on Duckie Brown’s runway may or may not have been deliberate and may have disappointed some of its avid fashion-forward fans.

But it did manage to give a complete picture of Duckie Brown: the designers can turn out exquisite tailored sportswear with a slight modern twist or exquisite tailored sportswear with a loud 360-turn.

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