World's Best Vodka? It's Anybody's Guess

French wine and spirits giant Pernod Ricard recently acquired Swedens's Vin & Spirits for $8.9 billion, the lion's share of which was for the previously state-owned company's Absolut vodka brand. Meantime, Diageo paid $900 million for half the worldwide distribution of Dutch vodka Ketel One. And Stolichnaya is looking for a new distribution partner since Pernod will have to give up its rights to the Russian vodka after its Absolut deal clears. Stoli rights could go for a few billion easy. Grey Goose sold for $2.2 billion in 2004.

I admit that when I see prices for vodka range from $8 per bottle for the lowly Popov to $60 for Gold Flakes Supreme, my bull-hockey antennae go up. Vodka is, as it says on the label, a "neutral spirit." There's no aging involved. No oak barrels. But then I am reminded that good branding counts in this world. The brand imagery, billions of dollars, and hype surrounding Grey Goose, Absolut, Ketel One, and of course even Trump Vodka, have all created very definite preferences for something that is meant to be odorless, colorless, and tasteless. If Perrier and Dasani can do it, why not vodka?

With spirits, especially vodka (because there is so little to distinguish one product from another), the design of the bottle and label is crucially important, along with the country of origin and "brand story." Each vodka I tasted had its own brand story that helps deliver the product as much as a lemon wedge or olive.

A WASTE OF MONEY?
For all the money that is changing hands over vodka these days, and a recession in full force that might prompt some drinkers to reevaluate how much thy are spending on spirits, I thought it a good time to take a fresh dive into the crowded world of vodka over the course of a few weeks to see which ones really do taste better, and if drinkers of branded vodka are full of good and discriminating taste or wasting their money.

Before we get to the tasting results, a few anecdotes: A friend of mine, Christopher, says he knows his vodka. A confirmed martini drinker who favors Absolut, I had him test his palate. First, I had Christopher sample, in a blind taste test, Absolut, Popov, Ketel One, Smirnoff, and Vox. I served them frozen, which, to me, is the best way to drink straight vodka. When asked to pick out Absolut, Charles actually chose Smirnoff. Next, for the martini test. We made martinis the way Charles likes them, with a half-shot of dry vermouth and two olives over ice made from distilled water. In this test, we made the drinks with Skyy, Absolut, Smirnoff, and Belvedere. Again, Charles got it wrong, choosing the martini made with Ketel One as his Absolut martini.

I then assembled three regular vodka drinkers who order by brand when they order at a bar or restaurant. One is a confirmed Ketel One drinker, one orders Grey Goose, and another orders drinks made with Belvedere if the bar has it. His back-up brand is Absolut.

This group orders everything from martinis to vodka and tonics to vodka and cranberry juice.

A LUCKY GUESS
First I served frozen shots to the group in a blind test. Grey Goose, Absolut, Belevedere, Ketel One, and Popov. One, the Ketel One drinker, successfully picked his brand out of the pack, but only after considerable angst and anguish, so much so that I made the group repeat the exercise. It seemed like he guessed and got lucky. In the second pass, none successfully picked their brand.

Next up was one-to-one mixtures of vodka and cranberry. To be cute, I made all the drinks with Popov. I told the panel that we hadn't changed the lineup of vodka brands.

"I like that," said one, who asked the brand of cranberry juice.By now, the panel of drinkers who thought themselves discerning imbibers were getting antsy, as though they were contestants on Are You Smarter Than a Fifth Grader and couldn't remember which planet is closest to the sun or who Ronald Reagan's Vice-President was.

Looking at the tasting cards of the group, it was plain to see they were guessing. There were a couple of right answers, but no one in this round said, "I think these are all the same."

PURE AND CLEAR
It isn't surprising to find such results in a vodka taste test. The goal of vodka distilling, according to the spirits executives and distillers I have spoken with over the years, is to come up with a spirit that is as pure and clear as possible. The taste notes of vodkas can be so slight and subtle, most often depending on the grain used, and the number of times the spirit is distilled, that they really only exist when drunk straight with purified ice, at room temperature, served straight up or frozen straight up. Having drunk every brand of vodka we tested over the course of a few weeks, I can honestly say that drinking it frozen is by far the most pleasant way to drink straight vodka. In this, the Russians are right.

The other conclusion I drew was that when it comes to mixing vodka with fruit juice, or unpurified ice, you might as well as save your money and keep a bottle of Popov around. After mixing with fruit juice, muddled mint, simple syrup, or tap-water ice, the slight subtleties of the vodka in these concoctions go out the window faster than the promise of a contractor who says he'll come to your house every day to work until the job is done.

Silk Angel by Tereza Roberts

It is well known, that Brazilians are masters of moda praia, beachwear fashion. Going to the beach is one of the best things to do for most people, on leisure time. Meanwhile, Brazilian fashion goes further than making swimsuits.
The sophistication of Sao Paulo and the robustness of Rio come to the streets of New York City through the designs of Tereza Roberts in her signature collection, Silk Angel. From baby doll swing dresses to long breezy sundresses, Silk Angel captures the relaxed Brazilian attitude, but exudes confidence. With silk being the main material used in her designs, Tereza manages to incorporate leggings with a strapless tops, long flowing dresses that make you dream of Copacabana Beach.

The overall feeling in her designs is a mix of influences, forms, shapes, textures and bright colors that come together to create the sexy and sassy Brazilian way-of-living. I like to call her collection a salute to "Brazilianness" was as much a celebration of the nation's resourcefulness as its exuberance.
 
That character -- of finding a way around every obstacle -- would be a credit to the country's fashion industry, and its economy. Tereza’s designs transform the usual. "If someone says you cannot do that, you don't stand there and say 'OK I can't do that,' you always try to do it, you keep trying, and you keep going and you keep walking, says Tereza. Tereza has been designing for years since she was a teenager in Brazil. Once she arrived in New York she began working to make her dream of a fashion label come true. Using the skills taught to her by her mother and grandmother, Silk Angel was born.

“My customeris someone looking for something different, something that isn't necessarily a trend. People looking for real designers, who develop materials and colors and mix them in unique ways. People who desire new things, and new ways of expressing themselves and communicating something through their clothing. That's the person who wears my clothes”, says Tereza as we toast to her collection as we sip caipirinhas.

Fashion Quick Hits

• Just so you know, Renzo Rosso "will continue to believe in the U.S.," even though he calls it a "tough moment" economically. Americans have apparently spent enough on overpriced Diesel things to allow the brand to grow nearly 2 percent here this year.
• Yves Saint Laurent's partner, Pierre Bergé, wrote a book in French called Letters to Yves, which will come out in February. He wrote it six months after the designer died of brain cancer.
• Carine Roitfeld's longtime partner, Christian Restoin, is helping revive the label Equipment. Carine is thought to have worn an Equipment blouse during Paris Fashion Week. So it ooks like Christian is earning his keep.
• Martha Stewart thinks J.Crew creative director Jenna Lyons's brother is "handsome."
• Amber Rose had to lean out of the bathroom at a party this week to ask a fellow lady in attendance to zip up her skintight dress. "I have a hard time staying in this thing," she said. "But Kanye loves it." Classy!

Tom Ford May Be a Control Freak, But He Does Not Throw Temper Tantrums

Perhaps Tom Ford is a control freak, but he'd prefer not to be called one. "I hate that word," Ford admitted to me on the phone this morning from his hotel room in New York. Last night he screened A Single Man at the Lighthouse Screening Room, where pals like Zac Posen and Mike Nichols were visibly moved by Ford's film. "But, in my life, I've often been called a control freak. There needs to be a better word for it. 'Control freak' makes it sound like you're crazy. " As an iconic designer, a sex symbol, and now a filmmaker, the man's got a lot to control. "If your name is on a shoe, then the heel is the way you want it and the toe is the way you want it and the leather is exactly the quality you want it. A lot of the furniture [on the set of A Single Man] was from my own house. I painted the paintings that were hanging on Charlie's [Julianne Moore's character] wall. If it's not your movie, what's the point? When you're creating something that is expressive, that's the point — it represents your point of view. So, yes, I was an extremely hands-on director."
Ford recently described his time at Yves Saint Laurent as "misery," since Yves and his partner, Pierre Bergé, were "so difficult and so evil." He pointed out, however, that Laurent and Bergé weren't actually his bosses: "We bought Yves's company, and Yves had nothing to do with it — he was totally gone and out of the company. I didn't work with Yves. I said that while I was working at Saint Laurent, they made my life difficult, because they did." So is he an easier man to work with? "Well, I don't think any place I've ever worked in has ever been difficult for the people who work there, because I don't throw temper tantrums. I'm a very rational, compassionate, organized guy. Working in a pleasant environment is very important to me."
Ford called writing and directing A Single Man "the most personal thing I've ever done in my life." He explained, "Fashion is a commercial endeavor for me. By its very nature, designing clothes is more of a surface industry. You're making clothes that make a woman's body look good and whether she looks good or not is what determines whether she buys your pair of pants. This [film] was the most purely artistic thing that I've ever done. I wasn't trying to design a film that would be commercial. If I was trying to do that, I would have put in a prom scene and made it Terminator 12. I wasn't trying to make something that competed with Twilight." Though, for the record, "I like Twilight," he added. "I liked the first one, and I'm dying to see the new one. But it's a different side of life."


R

Humberto Leon Believes in Perfect Suits and Comfy Undies

When college friends Humberto Leon and Carol Lim decided to open Opening Ceremony in New York in 2002, they had no idea that just seven years later they’d have two more stores, in Los Angeles and Tokyo. The original Opening Ceremony on Howard Street is now better than ever, with several collaborations in the works and a focus on up-and-coming designers from around the world. After viewing his stellar spring 2010 collection, I sat down with co-owner Humberto Leon to discuss their Olympic inspiration, how every woman should own a million dresses, and an extensive list of designers who shaped his love for fashion.
Opening Ceremony features a visiting city each year. What’s up next?
We have featured a city or country every year since opening. This year, since we opened our store in Tokyo, we decided to celebrate a year of partnerships. We did collections with Chloë Sevigny, Pendleton, Betsey Johnson, Keds, Timberland, Where the Wild Things Are, Trash and Vaudeville, and others. This will continue until fall 2010.
The store’s name references the Olympics, so what were your favorite Olympic Games?
We always use the Olympics as a source of inspiration. The 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles are the most memorable and epic to date.
How do you decide what to stock in the store?
Carol and I always think of occasions, because occasional dressing is the most fun. Whenever we pick anything, we think about the scenario for wearing it. The great thing is that we are on all buying appointments together, so we can always reference the collections we choose.

What is the aesthetic you’re striving for?
Fun, special, unique, classic, forever, nerdy, cool, dressy, functional, and multipurpose.

You’ve done some amazing collaborations. Anything coming up that we can look forward to?
There are some fun ones coming up, but Robert Clergerie is the only one I can talk about.


Describe your favorite piece, or pieces, in stock right now.
My favorite pieces are a Pendleton meets Opening Ceremony patchwork shirt and the Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony Bass loafers.

What was the first designer item you bought or wore?
Some fond memories include a white Wilsons leather jacket, a Forenza sweater, Zodiac buckle shoes with an elastic strap that I wore to prom, and Doc Martens. My first expensive pair of shoes came from Miu Miu's first men's collection. They were square-toe shoes with a Velcro strap and futuristic soles.

Who are some of your favorite designers, then and now?
Growing up, my favorite designers were Levi's, JimmyZ, Maui and Sons, Mossimo, Chess King, Esprit, Gap, Banana Republic, J.Crew, Benetton, Club Monaco, Ralph Lauren, JNCO, Peanuts, UFO, Final Home, Vexed Generation, Walter Van Beirendonck, Agnès b., A.P.C., Helmut Lang, Stussy, Calvin Klein, Prada, Miu Miu, Burberry, Raf Simons, Dries Van Noten, Cloak, Patrik Ervell, Band of Outsiders, N.Hollywood, Lad Musician, Barbour, and Supreme.

What pieces or labels do you wear most?
I always revolve around the same ideas of mixing functional outdoor clothing with dressier suiting-type pieces. I’ve been heavily influenced in style by the late-nineties successful Internet guy — the guy who wore New Balance sneakers with anything he wanted.
Where do you shop most in NYC, other than your own store?
I love shopping at other stores, as well as my own. I shop at Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Atelier, Seven, and Tokio7.
What are you coveting these days?
I want a Lanvin coat and a Margiela suit.
What trends are you into this season?
I don't really believe in trends, but I’m into baggier trousers for guys. I’m also really getting into corduroy. I think it is the most appropriate all-season fabric.
Any trends you wish would just disappear?
Jeans worn low to show your underwear and silk-screened T-shirts with tattoo prints.
What should every man stock in his closet?
A perfect suit, a perfect shirt, a perfect pair of shoes, great, hole-free socks, underwear that feels good, T-shirts from your childhood (even if they are ironic), a Pendleton flannel, gray slacks, great khakis, jeans that make you look good, a Barbour coat, New Balance sneakers, Rod Lavers, a Supreme hat, and too many others to name.
Every woman?
A million dresses for all different occasions: short, long, tight, and full. A great oversize cardigan, the perfect silk blouse, killer heels, awesome flats, comfortable tops, Alaïa skirts, and anything Balenciaga.
Finish this sentence: I never leave the house without …
My carabiner of keys, my BlackBerry, my wallet, and my Brookstone windproof umbrella

Who Is More Famous: Jesus Luz or Christian Siriano?

Last week I received an invite to an event that promised free Grey Goose vodka for two hours while Jesus Luz D.J.-ed in the penthouse of The Hotel on Rivington. Since he's hot and I like free vodka, house music, and the scant possibility of Madonna showing up, I signed up. The crowd was a mix of horrible meatpacking nighttime people and desperate faux hipsters. When we arrived, Jesus was sitting at a table in the corner with only one other guy. He is surprisingly short, perhaps not even six feet, but gorgeous in person. Madonna has done well for herself, indeed. When it was his turn to take the turntables, we were surprised to see him plug in a laptop. Usually when celebrities "D.J.," they just plug in their iPods and change the songs (I saw Björk do this once and head-bang with her entourage to "Say My Name" — it was amazing). But Jesus plugged in his own equipment, put headphones on, and actually used the soundboard. He didn't scratch, but he looked like he was actually D.J.-ing! And the music wasn't half bad! At first we considered requesting a song, but he was doing so well on his own we just let him go on with his Brazilian self.

However, Jesus is a very amiable D.J. He gamely posed for photos with fans throughout his time in the penthouse. And though Madonna didn't show, Christian Siriano did! He arrived with his boyfriend, Brad Walsh, and sat at Jesus's table. Eyeing the D.J. hungrily as he posed for photos with random girls, Christian eventually made his move, and ambushed the D.J. booth for a quick photo op of his own. So quick you'd think he was afraid, or quite possibly just intimidated by Jesus's hotness. Was Christian trying to piggyback off of Jesus's fame? We wondered, thereby prompting a much tougher, far more important question: Who is more famous, anyway? Madonna's boyfriend or the Project Runway winner?

Louis Vuitton’s Man Pants Are Not Made for Fencers

In June, Olympic fencer Jason Rogers was flown to Paris to walk the Louis Vuitton men's show. He was fitted in New York before traveling over there, but once he got there, was cut from the lineup. "The day before, I went to the fitting and they couldn’t fit my legs into the pants," Rogers told me Wednesday night at the Cinema Society and Calvin Klein screening of Broken Embraces. "Athletes have strong legs, right? So I guess their suits were particularly slim that season, so I couldn’t fit into anything in the show, so I ended up not walking." But didn't they fit the pants in New York? "Well, I didn’t fit the pants at the fitting, so I think they were taking the risk that I would fit the clothes once they got me to Paris and they had more choices," Rogers explained. "But they didn’t bet on the, uh, serious muscularity of the fencers’ legs." He added that fencers are very skinny on top but very muscular on bottom. "I have like 5 percent body fat." He sat front-row and watched the show instead. Rogers is currently signed with Wilhemina and looking for more modeling work.

Calvin Klein's Whitewashed Spring 2010

Basic American sportswear is what spring is all about this season at Calvin Klein, as a crisp collection of whites and natural tones created a casual vibe at the spring 2010 presentation last week.
The womenswear collection was sexy and functional, with an assortment of khaki dresses, some belted for shape with others more loose and free falling, and sure to be accessorized with the some of the hot colored bags and shoes of the season. Tie-dye dresses made the perfect transition from day to night and debuted as a wardrobe staple.
Denim for spring 2010 is channeling the 80s era in fashion with wash and style, as whitewashed jeans are what's in store. Shades of white, ozone, and cloud are designed for men and women for a more contoured and shape enhancing fit, featuring straight leg for men, and classic skinny or boyfriend cut for women. Adorning ankle zippers and rivets add a taste of detail that goes a long way.
The successful bleached out look is not limited to jeans, but essentially formed the core of this springs sportswear looks, with everything worn with clean white oxfords. It was washed out warm khakis and cool grey suits for men, while women's whites were plunging, giving just the right amount of skin and coverage simultaneously.

Taylor Jacobson Embracing Newfound Freedom

Last week, Taylor Jacobson left Rachel Zoe Inc., reportedly because she was fired. But she's handling the breakup very well by looking forward ... rather than back at all those good times they had that tend to make a girl nostalgic. When I asked if she'd ever consider designing her own line of clothing or accessories, she replied, "At this point I’m entertaining all ideas. I am walking into this new chapter with an open mind.

Taylor Jacobson Embracing Newfound Freedom

Last week, Taylor Jacobson left Rachel Zoe Inc., reportedly because she was fired. But she's handling the breakup very well by looking forward ... rather than back at all those good times they had that tend to make a girl nostalgic. When I asked if she'd ever consider designing her own line of clothing or accessories, she replied, "At this point I’m entertaining all ideas. I am walking into this new chapter with an open mind.

Man-gagement Rings Are Catching On

More and more women are buying engagement rings for their future husbands. And more and more men actually want to wear them. Women don't have to be the only ones who tell the world they're taken with a piece of jewelry. And men don't have to be the only ones to buy a ring. Diamonds can be everyone's best friend!

Elle vs. Vogue

Numbers for ad pages for the year 2009 are in. Though In Style sold the most pages among women's fashion titles for the year, Elle came out ahead of Vogue by 110 pages. Last year, Elle trailed Vogue by 317 pages. This year, Elle only lost 473 pages, while Vogue lost a whopping 900. In Style lost 446 pages, and last year came in 141 pages behind Vogue. Vogue publisher Tom Florio is acting like everything is fine.
“I learned how important it is to lead the market in terms of editorial standpoint, versus heavily discount and use our editors to sell ad pages. What we saw happen this year, which we haven’t seen in a while, is the discounts were approaching 70 percent. Some of the deals that were being done were just crazy,” said Florio in a swipe at the competition’s wheeling and dealing.

Just because Vogue hasn't given up its taste for the finer things — or the same boring covers with the same five actresses on them month after month — doesn't mean others won't.

Victor Osborne Wants More Men in Hats (and Possibly Heels)

At only 26 years old, milliner Victor Osborne has developed quite a following. Not only have his bowlers and fedoras graced the pages of several fashion magazines, but he also opened a new retail shop on the Lower East Side this past summer. The store’s open layout includes an atelier toward the back, where Osborne can often be found creating his luxury hats on traditional blocks. With an upcoming collaboration for Opening Ceremony’s spring line and custom pieces for Rihanna in Italian Vogue and Michelle Williams in Vogue, Victor Osborne is bringing hats back to the mainstream. We sat down with him to discuss his cinematic inspiration, bargain hunting at Beacon’s Closet, and how every man should take some fashion risks.

What's the inspiration behind your newest hat collection?
I was thinking about the movie Metropolis and the idea of what was considered futuristic back in the thirties.

How did you decide to design hats?
Hats always intrigued me, even from a young age. I noticed how they could change someone’s mood or look instantly just by putting on the right one (or sometimes the wrong one)! I wanted that ability to make someone feel complete the same way a hat can make you feel. "To top off your look."

You launched your line in 2005, but you just opened your NYC shop. How did you decide to open a store?
It was a way to learn what people wanted firsthand.

What type of person wears Victor Osborne hats?
I sell hats to 65-year-old mobsters, Brooklyn hipsters, and blonde Upper West Side socialites. Everyone!

Describe your favorite piece from the newest collection?
The Pleat Cap. It is a sewn-straw, slouchy, military general-inspired cap.

What was the first designer item that you bought or wore?
A bright fire-engine red Comme des Garçons wallet.

Who are some of your favorite designers?
Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, and Dai Rees — I love the British!

Who are your personal fashion icons?
Diana Ross in Mahogany; my boyfriend, Roger; Beth Ditto; and Bjork.
Describe your personal style.
I'm a designer, so I spend more time helping others develop their style than my own.

What labels do you wear most?
Tim Hamilton, vintage Helmet Lang, Karl Lagerfeld, and Trash & Vaudeville.

Where do you shop most in NYC?
I'm lucky that I get most of my stuff from designer friends, but I also love bargain hunting at Beacon’s Closet.

What trends are you into right now?
I'm happy that individuality, not trends, is finally being encouraged.

Any trends you wish would disappear?
Agyness Deyn haircuts; she's really the only one who looks good in it.

What's something every man should have in his closet?
Something daring, preferably a hat! But really, every man should have something they are scared of wearing, whether it’s a hat or a Day-Glo belt or even some black eyeliner. Anything that would make them look different from the pack.

Every woman?
High heels. Actually, that applies to men, too!

Finish this sentence: I never leave the house without ...
A smile on my face.

MISS J REVEALED

You'd think after thirteen seasons of America's Next Top Model, any regulars on the show couldn't possibly have kept any information about themselves from the public. Not only because of each character's self-obsessed ways, but also because, how much is there to know? Miss J, perhaps the most storied of the bunch, has revealed the last of his secrets in a book hitting shelves today. In Follow the Model, his memoir of sorts that he discussed on Tyra Banks's talk show yesterday, he reveals he has a kid. Us Weekly reports:
The former model said he and his ex-boyfriend Alex — whom he dubbed "the doctor" — were both sperm donors.
"A French lesbian had asked if we would be sperm donors," he told Banks. "So we thought, 'OK, you want me to do you?' And she was like, 'Ooooh, I'm not that talented.' So I said, 'Okay fine.' So we did a little test tube."
Miss J's ex is the biological father, but Miss Jay is still a part of Boris's life.
He said his son is "an incredibly smart child. He was toilet-trained at a year and three months. He refuses to drink out of plastic and will use only glass."
..."He insists on wearing nice shoes," he writes. "I think somehow my fashion genes must have slipped in there."
Solid parenting. The worst thing for a baby is to be seen out of doors in a stroller wearing Crocs and drinking from a sippy cup. This young lad is probably seen regularly lounging along the Seine with a crystal flute of Prosecco and the finest baby Loubs.

Michelle Obama’s Brooches Are ‘Part of Her Code’

Robin Givhan explores Michelle Obama's affinity for Moschino in a lengthy article in the Washington Post — because the world should never accept that MObama wears things because she likes them. Everything and every label she puts on her body means something.
Now, Moschino is unique in that it doesn't try to piggyback off the publicity opportunity. They let Michelle wear their clothes, notice on the television, and then sit back and remain calm, cool Europeans, rather than e-blast press releases to bloggers like me, who would in turn freak out about the news and tell you. However, Moschino designer Rosella Jardini reveals she can't help but think about making pieces Michelle would like when putting together their collections. She praises Michelle for not being afraid to stand out, stylistically:
"When women are elected to a certain level, women who've dressed in an exciting manner have a tendency to fall into the category of wearing little suits without detail and without personality," Jardini says. "How we create an image is undervalued. If you take for instance Queen Elizabeth, she's followed a strict code through life. When you see her, when you think of her, you see the little hats, the colors she chooses. When you think of political figures and how they choose to dress, it should be part of how they create their image."

"For Mrs. Obama, it really is enough to put on two pins," Jardini says, referring to the first lady's choice of accessories. "With these brooches, from Moschino and others, she's created a character for herself. They're part of her code."

Sounds like it's time for Givhan's 2,000-word essay on pins and what they mean. Or waist belts. We would very much like a ridiculously long analysis of Michelle's stash of those.

Phillip Crangi’s New Store Bejewels and Bedazzles

On lower Ninth Avenue, just north of Pastis, is a tiny new jewel box of a store that could be easily overlooked. Beloved jewelry designer Phillip Crangi just opened his first retail store last week after months of gutting and fully renovating the narrow space. With green velvet walls, black pressed-tin ceilings, and a slightly disheveled antique chandelier, the warm and cozy store is jam-packed with his beautiful, unique creations. The shop, called the Crangi Family Project, carries the designer's two lines (Phillip Crangi and Giles & Brother), along with carefully selected vintage items, like stacks of worn books on a variety of topics. I visited the store to check out some of the offerings.

The Crangi Family Project, 9 Ninth Ave., nr. Little West 12th St.; 212-929-0858