Monique Lhuillier Fall 2010

Monique Lhuillier, the Filipina designer known for her romantic wedding gowns, is in a fighting spirit for fall. The collection she showed Monday in Bryant Park was inspired by “Chinese warrior and military suits,” according to her show notes. The goal: “Strong silhouettes with a tough, chic edge.” The harder edge is understandable. Haven’t we all donned somewhat of a thicker skin in these times? Lhuillier’s runway show began with deep reds and purples in heavy, rich fabrics, including a lacquered matelassé dress and a crimson jacquard coat. Her tougher pieces, such as the jackets with structured shoulders, were paired with short skirts to create what she called a soldier effect. The models wore bright red lipstick and wore their hair slicked back severely into braids on top of their heads. Day turned to evening quickly and brought about hints of softness. Lhuillier, a Hollywood favorite, showed several red-carpet-appropriate looks, including her plum chiffon dress with an asymmetric neckline and gold detailing, as well as a navy chiffon halter gown with braided accents. One of the final looks was a strapless scarlet dress that was fitted tightly from the bust to the thighs then opened up to a train of rosettes. Perhaps a hint of optimism at the end?