Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Mid-Week Report

As I watch a line of stoic, genetically blessed models in dangerously tall heels parade by me for the 12th time in a single day, I realize that Mercedes Benz Fashion Week isn’t just a place for watching fashion. These runways are like a classroom, and these models and the sharp-tongued crowd surrounding me have taught me quite a bit.

At the risk of turning a fashion story into a Sidney Poitier movie, I’ll hold off on what I’ve learned for a moment and begin by answering the question I’ll hear when I return to Boston after these twice-yearly fashion endurance tests: “So, what’s the big trend for this year?’’

This is a particularly challenging question to answer, because, unfortunately, designers do not meet to decide on a big trend before fashion week. Instead, fashion writers and buyers watch hundreds of fashion shows in a single week. The things that they recall after this assault of frocks are usually declared the trends for the season.

A few other fashion editors who were swilling champagne with me explained that they don't believe in trends, but instead thinks of fashion as a big pool, where everyone contributes ideas and multiple trends live side-by-side. It’s about self-expression, and there is a huge range, not just one or two must-have pieces.

But since the question comes up so often, I will answer the “What’s the big trend for fall/winter 2010’’ question the best I can. At this point, it looks like the influence of menswear is emerging as a big trend for fall. Multiple designers, from Alexander Wang to Rag & Bone, have incorporated men’s tailoring and suiting material into their collections. Don’t worry ladies, you won’t have to dress like Grace Jones or Annie Lennox circa 1984. The looks are still quite feminine. Even Diane von Furstenberg, queen of the wrap dress, wrote: “I’ve always wanted to live a man’s life in a woman’s body’’ to describe her collection as “the essence of masculine and feminine.’’

After 10 seasons covering New York Fashion Week, I’ve learned that no matter how often People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals protest outside the tents at Bryant Park, every year designers will still incorporate fur into their collections. This week, Marc Jacobs, Thakoon, Carolina Herrera, and a handful of other designers used fur in abundance. It was like a barnyard with goat, mink, fox, beaver, raccoon, and even muskrat seen on the catwalk. (Just don’t tell Captain & Tennille about that last one.)

And if designers don’t break out the fur, then chances are that Vogue’s AndrĂ© Leon Talley will drape a pelt over his shoulder and stroll around the tents like a couture Fred Flintstone.

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