Monday, September 20, 2010

Loose Threads

• Prince Charles hosted an ecofriendly fashion show featuring designers like Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney as part of a public "green" festival in the garden of one of his estates, the Clarence House. The mayor of London said they wanted to prove that ecofriendly fashion can look good, not just crunchy.

• Kanye’s ex, Amber Rose, walked in BodyAmr’s show at London Fashion Week on Saturday. That's the fighting spirit!

• J.Crew is collaborating with New Balance on a line of sneakers that will hit shelves in early November.

• Brad Goreski somewhat explains the differences between a "look" and a "lewk," "major" and "mayjor," "working" and "werking."

• British department-store chain House of Fraser bought Biba, and the collection will be available online in 23 countries by the end of the month.

• Particle engineer Paul Luckham and designer Manel Torres have created a liquid fabric that can be sprayed onto your body and then peeled off to wear later. [Fashion Indie]

• Courtney Love will reportedly perform at an event in Paris co-hosted by Printemps and V magazine on October 5.

• Also in Love news: She sat in the corner and read a book throughout T magazine's welcoming party for new editor Sally Singer.

• All Walks Beyond the Catwalk, a body-image-awareness group, enlisted photographer Rankin to shoot nine "diverse" models, one age 81 and another a U.K. size 14, dressed in clothes by Matthew Williamson, Betty Jackson, Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, and Alice Temperley. The campaign, titled "Snapped: A Diverse Portrait of British Fashion," seeks to change "the default setting of pre-pubescent waif," according to spokeswoman Caryn Franklin.

• When rainstorms delayed his flight to London, Marc Jacobs made a surprise appearance at L.A.M.B.'s after-party on Thursday.

Ralph Lauren Spring 2011

Ralph Lauren's Spring 2011 collection was a country dance of formal prairie dresses and blouses in a whitewashed palette, with over-the-top-Texas longhorns and golden sparkle peppered in.
Lauren chose the American southwest as the regional inspiration for his latest collection, presenting an almost literal translation of the various styles of frilly, romantic flourishes found in long, sweeping skirts and voluminous blouses in the dust-bleached hues of the desert, complete with fringed leather, chokers and perforated leather. To pinpoint the geography even more precisely, we knew it was Texas he was after when we spotted silver longhorn hood ornaments on handbags and realized the American Indian-inspired chokers were bedazzled by diamonds.

The glittery, gold-sequined evening gowns that finished the show rounded out the effect.
But let's not forget that this is Ralph Lauren's version of America. A polite Southerner may call something "country" when they truly mean "hick," however this collection obviously anything but. Its down-home undertones are simply an authentic reference to the traditional style of country folk—in an undeniably high-fashion manifestation.

Isaac Mizrahi Spring 2011

The invitation to Isaac Mizrahi’s show looked kind of cheap, as if it had been dashed off on a copy machine to save some cash. But it turned out to be part of the show, which the designer called “IM Xerox.”

He had created prints on skirt suits, trench coats and dresses that looked, indeed, as if they had been shot out of a copier. The lapels, the pockets, the pleats and the hardware were not real, but facsimiles. Mr. Mizrahi’s prints were blurry, like copies of copies of copies, broken down and faded. He also showed a pastel floral print that was made like a grid of many different floral prints, and several of his signature paillette-covered evening looks that were slit up the back like hospital gowns.

There are many ways to interpret Mr. Mizrahi’s decision to make reference to a technology that is rapidly becoming obsolete. (Quite a few designers sent their invites by e-mail this season, so even the printed card may soon be a thing of the past.)

He could have been saying something about how our reliance on electronic devices has changed our perception of reality, or he could have been thinking that there really is no such thing as an original idea in fashion. Everything’s a copy of something. In fact, Martin Margiela did something quite like Mr. Mizrahi’s copied looks many years ago with a jeans collection that included a print of jeans superimposed on a real pair of jeans. Was Mr. Mizrahi copying Mr. Margiela? Perhaps that was the point.

Michael Kors Spring 2011

Dig out your Jesus sandals and hacky sacks, fashion is in the throes of a back-to-nature moment. And Michael Kors has given it a name -- "Naturaluxe."

Tapping into the zeitgeist, his collection is about getting away from the clutter, unplugging from the Internet and taking a walk in the garden or on the beach.

But Kors didn't just reference nature in color and print; he also took a step toward preserving it, by incorporating hemp, a sustainable fabric.

These were clothes for relaxing, or for "a sunshine state of mind," as Kors puts it in the show liner notes.

So he started with a clean slate of neutral basics, including a white linen gauze pullover and sarong, and an elongated hemp linen sleeveless jacket, worn with hemp Bermuda shorts. Easy, uncomplicated -- the kind of clothes that could take you on a weekend escape with just a carry-on.

Then came color and texture, none of it too fussy. A smocked "shrub print" bathing suit with the look of fresh-cut grass, and a daffodil yellow popover dress would put a smile on even the most stressed-out person's face.
But the most perfect look of the whole show was a "shrub print" shredded taffeta skirt, worn with a crisp white button-down shirt, cinched with a brown leather belt. The essence of spring.

Even the evening clothes had the ease of lounge wear--a zinnia pink jersey sarong, worn with a matching tank top; a pair of hemp crystal beaded pajama pants topped by a heather gray cashmere cotton sweatshirt. (Is there anything more decadent than a cashmere sweatshirt?)

And who knew there was such a thing as hemp lace? Kors made a tank dress out of the stuff, which has the most marvelous nubby texture.

Maybe it's because technology is so slick that there's a certain appeal to something that's looks a little rough around the edges.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Catherine Malandrino Spring 2011

Her summer vacation in the south of France left Catherine Malandrino feeling wild. Ms. Malandrino may be a New York designer who grew up in France, but she’s forever considered a French New York designer because her collections generally have a very Parisian feminine look.

Not this season with her upscale Malandrino line.

If you’re looking for the same trends everyone else is doing, just move right along, folks, because you won’t find it here.

Malandrino is where you should go if you want clothes that are simultaneously art objects and wearable and comfortable. That is not easy for a designer to do – it takes real confidence and clarity to consider how the clothes will feel, how (and where) they should cover the body, and then make them into a three-dimensional art installation.

I couldn’t help thinking that Ms. Malandrino would wear every single item in the collection herself. It’s easy to imagine her in the vivid tie-dye dresses, the tops of leather or linen knotted in macramé, and the transparent pants that seemed a cross between leggings and slacks. This collection is completely her personal aesthetic.

The shoes were a highlight – especially the knotted leather sandal-boots that rose over the knee.

Derek Lam Spring 2011


Clothes that make you take a deep breath and say "aahhh." That is what several designers showed here over the weekend, as a new quietude took over the runway.

Derek Lam's beautifully restrained collection was inspired, he wrote in the show notes, by artist Larry Bell and California's singular brand of minimalism.

The result was a romantic ode to classic sportswear, with clothing that was simple but covetable -- an A-line skirt in a lovely washed blue denim, paired with a boxy utility jacket with a back vent detail; a canvas trench coat with a peplum-back vest in the same fabrication layered on top; and a short-sleeve devore velvet dress in a dappled blue, black and green pattern like moonlight shining on ocean waves.

This was Lam's take on effortless West Coast style -- a white sateen pleated skirt worn with a black swallowtail-back cashmere sweater; an incredibly chic sleeveless linen jumpsuit; and flared trousers (they're baaaack!) Worn with a navy blue embroidered tunic tucked in.

Anchoring these easy, breezy clothes were wood-block platform sandals that are sure to become one of spring's must-have styles.

Thakoon Spring 2011

Planning on wearing Thakoon for spring? Start your crunches now.
The designer Thakoon Panichgul took the sheer look that has been popular on runways at New York Fashion Week's spring previews and ran with it.
The collection had a boudoir feel, with loose pajama stripes, bra tops and sheer lingerie-like dresses. At times the runway seemed more suited to Victoria's Secret than the front-row crowd that included former White House Social Secretary Desiree Rogers.
Panichgul won name recognition for dressing first lady Michelle Obama on many occasions, but in nothing quite so daring.
To be sure, there were some beautiful clothes that could travel outside the bedroom — a pajama stripe silk layered vest with white cotton twill pants, cuffed at the ankles, had a loose and pretty feel. An Oxford shirting asymmetric dress made use of hook and eyes that decorated much of his collection. A feather silk cascade gown and vanilla double georgette draped vest had a delicate touch.
Starlets might consider the cobalt metallic python dress for their next red carpet — it would be a good choice for Kerry Washington, another front row guest. A matte version of the python material was used for the finale gown, which used the hook-and-eye treatment to form delicate straps.

Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2011

After 25 years in fashion, Tommy Hilfiger knows exactly what he stands for. His 25th anniversary show at New York fashion week was an unabashed celebration of the blend of sport, fashion and feel-good glamour that has made him one of the longest-running success stories in American fashion.

In the power-seat next to Vogue editor Anna Wintour, in the front row of the show, he placed not a fashion industry heavyweight or a Hollywood starlet, but a sports star who had never been to a fashion show before: Amare Stoudemire, of the New York Knicks basketball team. It sent a strong message that the Hilfiger heritage is as much about athleticism and macho American maleness as it is about the world of hemlines and fabrics.

Wintour and Stoudemire were joined in the front row by an all-star lineup including Christina Hendricks and Jennifer Lopez, designed to provide maximum coverage for the landmark show.

Hilfiger has called his signature style "preppy with a surprise" and this collection, for spring-summer 2011, stayed true to that formula. Entitled Twisted Country Club, it starred rolled-hem shorts in seersucker stripes, pleated tennis dresses and crisp blazers in an all-American palette of red, white and blue, lifted with slices of lemon yellow. The show for 1,000 people was followed by a party at the Metropolitan Opera House, at which the Strokes played their first gig in New York for four years.

Tommy Hilfiger himself has not owned the company since 2006, when he sold it to private investment company Apax Partners. Earlier this year, Phillips-Van Heusen, owner of Calvin Klein, brought the label into their stable for $3bn. Hilfiger remains with the company as a "principal designer and visionary".

Friday, September 10, 2010

Christian Siriano Spring 2011


With African giraffe prints, Asian temple graphics, and flowy Mediterranean inspired fabrics, style elements from around the world gave a global edge to the Christian Siriano show.

"It was really about cultures and bringing little elements from each culture together in one world," Siriano said.

Siriano's spring/summer 2011 collection features looks for every hour of the day, from blushy basics to bellowing blue gowns to slinky sequin cocktail dresses.

"It's youthful, but it's also mature. For me, that's kind of how we have to create the balance. And I love that, I think there's something for everyone in this collection," Siriano said.

Celebrity stylist and author of "The Shopping Diet," Phillip Bloch, says Siriano's collection will turn the heads of fashion elite and everyday women alike.

"You have to buy things that are versatile and you can get a lot of use out of these days. And I think a lot of Christian's clothes are very versatile," Bloch said.

Project Runway's Finest



When Faith Hill showed up as the Project Runway guest judge last season, it seemed a bit fashion-random, as if someone threw a dart at a copy of Redbook to find the most innocuous pretty lady out there. I can't decide if this year's choice, Jessica Simpson, is a step up, back, or sideways: On the one hand, she has a very successful shoe line and never goes a week without appearing in a tabloid; on the other, should the style self-saboteur who wore the Mom Jeans that galled the world really hold anyone's fashion career in her hands?

Simpson entered flanked by guards about five minutes after the runway cleared, as opposed to coming from backstage with the other judges. She wore a glittery gunmetal minidress with a blousy top and snug skirt — a hair too snug, perhaps — and a slicked-tight ponytail, plus about five pounds of makeup. And she initially seemed as uneasy to be there as we were at seeing her, but then again, she is a Michael Kors aficionado. Maybe he finally called in a favor.

Heidi Klum, in an orangey-red pantsuit that looked better on her than it had a right to, kicked off the show with a rousing endorsement of the clothes she'd seen backstage, then sat down — a few spots over from Runway exec producer Harvey Weinstein. Other front-row berths went to the adorable Jordin Sparks, Tyson Beckford, Jamie-Lynn Sigler (chewing gum the entire time), singer JoJo, and Jay Manuel, his silver hair hidden under a fedora and sporting pants similar enough to his own skin tone that if you looked at him out of the corner of your eye, he appeared to be half-nude.

Overall, the ten-designer show was a lot more polished than the last — with way fewer ghastly collections from the already eliminated designers who, historically, occasionally show decoy looks that seem to have been thrown together in the back of a van. Like or dislike the offerings, most were at least carefully made, as if everyone cared — whether finalist or simply filler. And there were tons of bold accessories, from sculpted headpieces to hair bands (alas made of cloth, not of Mötley Crüe) to the gold face paint on Casanova's girls. If we had to guess — and of course we do — I think the finalists are Valerie Mayen's ebullient rainbow collection, the clearly moved and weepy Andy South with his spindly metallic fascinators, and either Chris Collins or The Dreaded Gretchen, who claimed that this season was chockablock with "growth and self-discovery," which I assume is a euphemism for "the shame that comes from being chewed out by Tim Gunn." (As if to underscore that, she said she named her collection Running Through Thunder.) Her stuff was a tad drab, as were her mopey facial expressions, but maybe she was just regretting wearing what looked like a leotard under a translucent dress, which had the crowd craning its collective necks to see her butt cleavage.

After the show, as Simpson's guards leaped from the stands to hold back onlookers, and old faves like Uli and Seth Aaron milled around, I overheard Beckford give an interview about grooming tips for men. "Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate," he said. "And moisturize. Both those have slowed the aging process on myself." And then, while also advocating mani-pedis, we could swear I heard him conclude, "Some guys say, 'Oh, that's so gay,' but it's not gay to be good-looking." Somebody please give that guy a book deal.

Loose Threads



• Naomi Campbell: “I used to fight everything. I used to be, like, ‘Why am I in a restaurant and that person is staring at me?’ I used to put on a pair of glasses and a hat and then wonder, ‘How do they know it’s me?’ That’s my irrationality. I’m a recovering person in progress. Every rehabilitation program I’ve been in says the same thing: Getting past the denial is half the battle. Take responsibility for your actions. No matter who you are, a banker or a model or an aesthetician, if you don’t do that, you’ll find yourself living in an insanity world.”

• Tatler magazine named Olivia Palermo girl of the year. Is she really as surprised as she looks?

• Chanel is reopening its Spring Street store tomorrow, and shoppers can expect to see a new, ten-foot-high acrylic bottle of Chanel No. 5 outfitted with video screens.

• Manolo Blahnik is confused by his success. “I don't know why my shoes are so popular — I am always surprised and mystified by it. Perhaps it's because they don't have a set time period or ageing look to them.”

• Rumi “Fashion Toast” Neely will model in Rebecca Minkoff’s presentation on Sunday.

• J. Brand partnered with Erdem, Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Richard Nicoll, and Meadham Kirchhoff on a limited-edition denim collection.

• Vena Cava’s Sophie Buhai on live-streaming fashion shows: “Oh, my God. It would have been the most exciting thing to be able to gather around, and geek out with your fashion friends like you can do today.”

• Men fall victim to vanity sizing, too. An Esquire reporter measured seven pairs of pants from seven different brands, and all of the waistbands turned out to be longer than the reported 36 inches.

• Victoria and David Beckham have quickie elevator sex in this ad for the couple’s new scent, Intimately Beckham Yours.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Moonshine in Manhattan

The long weekend has come.

The long weekend has gone.

And still all you can think about is disappearing again.Dropping out. Living a life of solitude.

Perhaps out into the wooded mountainsides with only a rucksack, your banjo, the gentle breeze, an old coonhound, an outhouse and maybe some moonshine.

Actually, scratch that. We got a little carried away. But we may have stumbled onto something with the moonshine...

Introducing Original Moonshine, the old backcountry, back-porch, illegal hooch, available now for the first time ever in the world for your drinking and bottle-servicing pleasure in Manhattan.

If you have been searching long and far for the booze version of the Beverly Hillbillies, this is the stuff for you. Basically, it’s a backcountry, bathtub, hillbilly spirit, distilled four times to smooth it out and sweetened up so as not to induce fits of coughing, jaundice or incest. Gone: the risk of blindness. Remaining: unaged, clear,corn whiskey that indeed tastes like corn and plays nice with champagne buckets, gin and the Meatpacking District.
 
What that means for you is that there is a new way for you to show off your penchant for off-kilter discoveries while you’re out at, say, Provocateur and summon your hostess for a round of ’shine punches. And if you want to carry this all the way out, order a bottle, and as the sparkler fades to reveal a glass jug of Original Moonshine, your friends will marvel at your boozy resourcefulness.

We’re thinking a round of Moonhattans is in order.

Bookmarc in the Village




Lots of news on the Marc Jacobs real-estate front: Yes, West Village residents are probably still not over the allegedly seriously inconvenient foot traffic the label's Marc by Marc Jacobs Accessories store on Bleecker Street has attracted. But they can untwist their panties for now, because the store just had a bit of a face-lift and reopens today as a Marc Jacobs Accessories store, which will presumably sell handbags for the rich instead of key chains for the masses. And they might not have to worry too much about the new Bookmarc store, which opened this weekend, attracting a similar following because, well, how many people buy and like to read books nowadays?

That said, there are lots of non-literary items to enjoy in Bookmarc, such as key chains and journals with cheeky phrases like "Moby's Dick (LOL)" and "The Gay Gatsby" printed on the covers. The store also plans to have book signings, and a singer performing in October, so maybe this will be the hottest storefront since Baked by Melissa opened in Soho and made the world feel better about eating cupcakes just because theirs are tiny, even though when combined would be just as caloric as eating an actual cupcake (but whatever, because tiny things are the best)!

It's too soon to tell if miniature foods will become part of the Marc Jacobs Inc. purview, but the brand is getting into food. Marc Jacobs's business partner, Robert Duffy, told Racked NY that a Marc Jacobs café is in the works and it won't open on Bleecker — Duffy said they're looking "uptown," but provided no further details. Since there are no Marc Jacobs stores uptown, it sounds like this café will be a stand-alone operation, rather than just cramming itself into an existing store. And the menu already has so much pun potential! Marcaroni and cheese, honey buns, meatballs ...

Loose Threads



• Heidi Klum is working on a line of sportswear for New Balance.

• Roberto Cavalli is profitable again! The company reported growth in retail and wholesale; products celebrating the brand’s 40th anniversary are doing well, too.

• Sonic Youth's Kim Gordon, who spent the summer in "Levi cut-off shorts, baggy and oversized T-shirts and Rachel Comey sandals," doesn't wear the clothes that she designed for Sportmax. "I can't really afford their stuff," she said.

• Keira Knightley wears head-to-toe camel to match her camel motorcycle in Chanel’s Coco fragrance commercial.

• Stylist Mary Alice Stephenson has been hired by USA Network to glam up characters' wardrobes in shows like Covert Affairs and Royal Pains.

• Ever wondered what the apartments of Jenna Lyons, Wenlan Chia, and other fashion insiders look like? Now can you can see them in a book of photos by Rima Suqi, on sale today.

• Doutzen Kroes tells the New York Post about her favorite places to eat, shop, and get massages in New York.

• Violinist Caitlin Moe and D.J. Mia Moretti will be providing soundtracks to a lot of New York Fashion Week shows this season.

• Vena Cava collaborated with Tenoversix on a shoe collection, which will debut at Vena Cava’s runway show.

• Yet-to-open nightlife spot Lavo will host Zac Posen's Z-Spoke party during Fashion Week.

• Reed Krakoff is opening an 1,800-square-foot flagship store on Madison Avenue today.

• Lady Gaga wears a meat bikini on the cover of Japanese Men’s Vogue.

• Opening Ceremony teamed up with French taxidermy house Deyrolle to produce a line of scarves printed with mounted animals.

• Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana chartered a yacht with a giant inflatable slide.

TOM FORD for Women!



f anything will have editors fainting over their Fiji water this Fashion Week, it might be Tom Ford, who is hosting an elusive cocktail party on September 12. WWD hears that His Forbulessness will show something from his first namesake line of womenswear at this affair. His spokeswoman confirmed the event is "a small cocktail party" but would not reveal if he'll bandy about his new clothes as well. The paper reports Ford will show the full collection, including clothes, shoes, bags, and jewelry — ZOMGWTFBBQ! — in January for June deliveries. So in a year, you and your lover might be sitting in your respective offices wearing his and her Tom Ford! And then you can go home and feed each other spoonfuls of caviar with real ivory utensils.

Empire Cruises, Cretive Director

Since 2010, Empire Cruises has offered affordable and fun private boat rentals in New York City. I lead a wonderful team that included 7 ves...