Alexandre Herchcovitch's debut for Brazilian label Rosa Cha on Thursday, Sept. 10, in New York was spectacular. The usual glam swimwear line showed a dazzling array of bikinis, one pieces and cover ups that paid homage to the “beach blanket bingo” 1950s.
The collection featured black and white micro mini polka dots to a burst of sunshine with orange and yellow combinations that left you warm and fuzzy. They sound tricky, but they looked great and, worn on the right body, real sure-fired head turners.
While the collection featured barely-there bikinis, most of the collection was spare, but structured. Underwire bra tops and some swimsuits that reminded me of Annette Funachello frolicking on the playa, mixed easily with short sundresses, casual, rompers, jumpsuits, shorts and triangle tops that could easily be worn with a pair of jeans or out to lunch with friends. One technique that was particularly interesting was a woven fabric of yellow and orange that reminded me of a kaleidoscope. My seatmate said it reminded him of "Legos." No matter what the reference, the look was unique, and more interesting than the usual maillot.
This collection will be a delightful, multi-tasker for your next beach vacation, as long as you have the body to carry it off. The high platform wedgies were precarious and stunning. The touch of patent leather was audacious. Even more pops of color came from wide, plastic bangles and headbands.
Other looks to impress were crystal appliqué one-pieces, or a trio of basket-weave leotards in great hues of orange and canary yellow. Overall, we heard of echoes of Fifties Rio, with models donning lots of polka dot fabrics and Jet Set head scarves. Plunging V-neck blouses, black-and-white striped kimono looks and chambray bodies all showed Herchcovitch craftily moving the Rosa Cha brand ahead, without taking any too foolish leaps. Worn by a smartly cast selection of Brazilian and Eastern European models and styled by Mauricio Ianes with just the right amount of understatement, this was a laudable first-time at bat for the designer with a brand that had drifted of late.
Herchcovitch replaced founder Amir Slama this summer after the latter fell out with the label's key investors.
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