Thursday, December 23, 2010
Exotic Knickknacks and Handmade Shirts in SoHo
You can run a two-minute drill in 45 seconds.
All you need is 10 minutes to get from TSA pat down to aisle seat.
And NASA typically reserves the rare T-minus 5 countdown for your space launches.
So really, four days to buy an entire shopping list’s worth of gifts should be a walk in the park.
But in case you’re feeling pressured, or have an uncle asking for a flask that reads “sex” in nautical flags, allow us to introduce Jon Ashe, a tightly curated SoHo corner shop with a little bit of everything, open now.
Basically, this is the kind of place where you would buy things for explorers, Indiana Jones types or guys who want to have things that make them look like Indiana Jones types. The walls are upholstered in felt. The display cases are full of things like knives made from dinosaur teeth. And there’s US Geological Survey tools and milspec compasses scattered all over the place.
Listen, we don’t have your list right in front of us, but we can’t imagine there is someone on it who wouldn’t want a handmade German leather soccer ball. Or a shaving kit. Made from antlers.
And if you still can’t find that perfect piece of kitsch in the storefront, there’s always Yuketen backpacks and Jon Ashe’s own topstitched button-down shirts.
Which are only marginally less exciting than a dinosaur knife.
Beauty Marks
HAIR
• Breaking: Kirsten Dunst now has bangs. No word on whether she got them professionally cut or if she went the D.I.Y. route like Brooklyn Decker and Kate Moss.
• One of the models at Vena Cava’s e-commerce shoot made a bow out of her own ponytail. Hairbows: not just for Lady Gaga.
• Chris Benz ran some rainbow streaks through his hair with Manic Panic. The designer said, “I thought this might only be holiday hair, but I think I'm gonna have it stick around for a while.”
MAKEUP
• Megan Fox tousles her hair and applies lip gloss reallllly slowly in her new video spot for Giorgio Armani cosmetics.
• Hyung Jeong Ji continued the neon-eye-makeup trend by wearing gobs of acid green eye shadow in an editorial for the latest issue of Korean W.
NAILS
• This weekend, Vanessa Hudgens debuted a very complicated manicure featuring holographic Minx stickers and gold and matte black polishes.
A $900 Cell Phone?
Giorgio Armani has printed its name on a Samsung phone, the new Galaxy S, and hired Ben Hill to model it in a slick new ad campaign, which still does not convince us that €700 (about $920) is an appropriate price to pay for it.
Loose Threads
• Bankrupt denim company Rock & Republic was just acquired by VF Corp. for $57 million.
• Terry Richardson shot Anja Rubik for Mango’s latest ad campaign.
• Adidas is planning to debut its outdoor collection in the U.S. market at next month’s Outdoor Retailer show. The line is already successful in Europe, where it’s been sold for the past two years.
• Roberto Cavalli confirms that he's planning to open at least fifteen new cafés and five clubs in cities like São Paulo, Shanghai, Istanbul, Beirut and Mumbai.
• Polyvore is debuting a tool called Style Analytics, which will calculate which brands are the most popular on the site.
• Opening Ceremony has teamed up with Maison Martin Margiela on a capsule collection of women’s clothing and accessories called (deep breath) MM6 Maison Martin Margiela x Opening Ceremony.
• Vogue's "Impact List" named Naomi Campbell's wedding as one of the most anticipated events of 2011.
• Louis Vuitton recently opened a new store in Naples, and to mark the occasion the luxury brand partnered with the city’s dance school, the Teatro San Carlo. For the next three years, Louis Vuitton will offer scholarships to the school’s students and sponsor talks with figures from the dance and theater industry.
Amar’e Stoudemire Is Reportedly Launching a Fashion Line With Rachel Roy
Amar'e Stoudemire, whom fashion people know as Anna Wintour's potential future Vogue cover boy and sports people know as a power forward for the New York Knicks, is reportedly crafting up a clothing line with designer Rachel Roy. The basketball player became known in the fashion world this past September when Anna Wintour invited him as her personal guest to the Fashion's Night Out runway show in Lincoln Center and then sandwiched his six-foot-ten-inch body between herself and Hamish Bowles at the Tommy Hilfiger show a few days later.
Since September, Stoudemire has been too busy actually playing basketball to gad around at stylish events, but he hasn't forgotten about the fashion world. Turns out he's just been plotting his next move, which "Page Six" says is a collaboration with Roy, specifically on her contemporary women's label for Macy's, titled Rachel Rachel Roy. The joint venture would launch next fall, according to the Post's source. The pair met in September and were supposedly seen having dinner together last week at the Lion in the West Village. Said Stoudemire's rep, "They've had conversations but nothing's confirmed."
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Raise Your Hand If You Are Over Gaga
This year was full of memorable fashion moments. A transgender model starred in a Givenchy campaign; plus-size model Crystal Renn walked in a Chanel show; Beyoncé modeled for Tom Ford's first namesake womenswear show; beautiful tributes to the late Alexander McQueen were staged, while his legacy strode beautifully on the runway; Harvard scholars found Michelle Obama's effect on the stock markets to be worth $2.8 billion; Miranda Kerr walked Balenciaga pregnant; Halle Berry was the first black woman to appear on a September issue of Vogue since 1989; Daphne Guinness bought Isabella Blow's entire wardrobe; Kate Middleton started crazes for sapphire engagement rings and a couple of generic dresses — and I could go on! But of all the amazing and wonderful things that made a statement in the fashion industry this year, Time magazine has decided that Lady Gaga's meat dress — of all the crazy and beautiful things she's worn! — is the most significant of them all. You know Tyra Banks is seething over this, since the time she put her girls in meat bikinis on America's Next Top Model — before Gaga decided to give herself over to the butchers — the world didn't care a whole lot.
On the Time list, Gaga is followed by a slew of bad outfits worn by Heidi Klum, Britney Spears, Rihanna, Prince, and ... Charo. What Time probably meant wasn't fashion statements, but fashion disasters.
Beauty Marks
MAKEUP
• Frida Gustavsson wears deep-purple eye shadow and mauve lip gloss in Anna Sui’s latest beauty ads.
• M.A.C. is launching a slew of new products, including a peacock-inspired eye palette, a new mascara, and a Champagne-hued makeup line called Cham Pale.
• Glee’s Heather Morris, who plays Brittany S. Pierce on the show, has been named the new face of Estée Lauder’s Flirt makeup line. She won’t be in any ads, but she will be making lots of store appearances and hosting online giveaways. [
SKIN
• Dry brushing, which involves scrubbing one's skin with a tough-bristled brush, is being promoted by spas and in magazines as a way to flush toxins. Medical experts say these claims are dubious, though.
HAIR
• Jessica Alba chopped her hair into an above-the-shoulder bob.
Loose Threads
• Photographer David Sims shot Chloé’s spring ad campaign, which features models Iselin Steiro and Malgosia Bela and will drop in February.
• Sebastien Faena shot Paz de la Huerta sucking her thumb for the winter cover of Muse magazine.
• Neiman Marcus has named Ann Paolini senior vice-president and managing director of the retailer's Last Call division.
• The schedule for London Fashion Week in is, and Paul Costelloe is slated to kick off the proceedings on Friday, February 18.
• The Federal Trade Commission is setting some guidelines on what can be marketed as platinum. Jewelry containing between 50 and 85 percent platinum must be marked as such, and the full names of the alloys and metals mixed in with it must be stated fully.
• Stella McCartney launched a new iPad app, and highlights include backstage footage of McCartney's latest spring/summer 2011 show and a performance by Pharrell Williams and N*E*R*D at the after-party.
• The Gap's FEED USA bags are stamped with a "Made in the USA" label, but the retailer admitted that some of them had to be made in China due to time constraints.
• This guy designed suspenders to keep saggy pants from falling down.
• A new book, Fashion Drawing in Vogue by William Packer, charts the magazine’s fashion illustrations from 1909 until the present day and features drawings by René Gruau, Salvador Dali, and David Hockney, who wrote the book's preface.
• Naomi Campbell, on wearing a couture gown and high heels to her community service appointment in 2007: "Yep! Why shouldn’t I have done? Why should they expect me to go looking bedraggled or something?"
• Burberry promoted Miles Freeland to be the director of public relations, and he will now oversee all publicity for the brand in North America.
Catherine Watch
Though Bruce Oldfield is the odds-on favorite to design Kate(excuse me) Catherine Middleton's dress, this doesn't mean he actually is. Royals correspondent Yvonne Yorke points out that the focus has been on him because he designed evening gowns for Princess Di.
However, as Catherine already has the 'Diana ring,' she has other ideas regarding her wedding dress.
There's indication that Catherine has gone for a young, 'little-known,' British designer. When the name is officially announced, it will come as a surprise to many, and the designer will then be known around the world. For clues on the identity, I suggest looking at those who have made dresses for Catherine, her sister Pippa, and her mother Carole.
So someone could be in store for a Jason Wu Inaugural Ball moment — times one billion!
Diva
It's another first for the first lady: Michelle Obama attended the "Christmas in Washington" concert in a vintage black dress from the 1950s, marking the first time a first lady has attended a high-profile public event in a secondhand dress. The gown, by the late designer Norman Norell, has a square neckline, is covered with black lace, and has a tea-length tulle skirt. No one knows exactly how much Mrs. Obama's wardrobe crew paid for the dress, but fashion experts estimate $2,500. The gown came from a vintage boutique in Chelsea, New York City, which said the first lady plans to wear more of its gowns in the future.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Rachel Antonoff Spurs a Saddle-Shoe Comeback
Designer Rachel Antonoff has become known for her fantastical Fashion Week presentations, from staging a Nancy Drew–tinged murder mystery for fall 2010 to a Peter Pan–inspired slumber party (complete with s'mores) for spring 2011. “I love the idea of costume and playing dress-up — how an item of clothing or accessory can be transformative,” she says. “You can be anything for a day with the change of a hat.”
For someone interested in the dramatic side of fashion, Antonoff's own wardrobe is surprisingly low maintenance, tending toward flats, leggings, hoodies, and striped tees. After she used Bass’s flats in her Fashion Week presentations last year, the brand approached her to design a collaboration. The debut spring 2011 line comes out early next year and will be stocked at Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Free People, and more. Apart from her foray into footwear, Antonoff is having a busy winter. She’s a contributor to Lula magazine — she penned a story on the iconic white dress for the latest Rodarte-edited fall/winter 2010 issue — and she’s working on a follow-up to last year's spoof on cult-classic Teen Witch to plug her spring collection (the original video starred Alia Shawkat). This month, she’s moving into her first office on West 38th Street, which she’s planning to wallpaper in a fittingly dramatic zebra print. We caught up with the designer to discuss her love of leggings, the beauty of a black-and-white flat, and the sex appeal of a particular jumper.
How did you get involved with Bass?
I’ve been wearing their saddle shoes every day for years. I’ve never been a huge fan of heels, though I’ve worn them because I felt I had to. Heels can be great in the right moment, but I love the idea of flats that aren’t just comfortable — they can be adorable and make an outfit too.
What was your intention with the line?
I wanted to put my spin on the classic heritage Bass style. I changed it up a little, doing shoes in patents and floral prints, as well as some completely new styles. That said, I don’t think there’s any way to improve a basic black-and-white saddle shoe.
You’ve become known for your Fashion Week presentations. Why the elaborate sets?
Well, I have a theater background. One thing I love about Fashion Week is you get to create a 3-D scene, to show more of the influences behind the collection, rather than just the clothes. This spring, I focused on the wonder of childhood, specifically inspired by Peter Pan and the Swiss Family Robinson. For the presentation, we had a big tree-house theme in the backyard with forts throughout.
What kind of a person wears your designs?
I started designing for myself and friends. It’s mildly embarrassing, but as a child I had these elaborate daydreams, and I always wore a really fabulous outfit in them. That was the original inspiration: Why don’t I make that? I do a lot of designing in my head when I’m jogging or on a car ride.
Who are your favorite designers?
I don’t think it gets better than Karl Lagerfeld. I also really love Timo Weiland, Wren, and Whit. And I’m having a real J.Crew moment. I spent some time wandering around one of their stores recently, and I was in shock. Everything in there looks like it could have been made by some young indie designer.
What’s the first designer item you bought?
In high school I had that little Louis Vuitton half-moon under-the-shoulder bag.
Where do you like to shop in New York?
I always love Archangel Antiques — they have over a million vintage buttons. I bought buttons there for my first collection. And I know I’m really late to the party, but Opening Ceremony. It calls to me — I find ways of justifying buying things that I really shouldn’t.
How would you describe your personal style?
Based in comfort and pulled from everywhere. There are elements of silliness. Leggings are my default outfit — they make me feel prepared for anything. I used to be really into running, but now that I’m working so much I do this thing called a spontaneous workout. Basically, it entails running from one meeting to another like a crazy person.
Loose Threads
• Karolina Kurkova and androgynous model Andrej Pejic were shot for Jean Paul Gaultier’s latest ads, and Kurkova posted a picture of herself with Pejic on her Facebook profile.
• A new trailer for Pirates of the Caribbean 4 shows Gemma Ward as a mermaid.
• Neiman Marcus is experiencing some major staff reshuffling under new president Jim Gold.
• Condé Nast’s parent company just raised $500 million for a mergers and acquisitions deal, which means they might be in shopping mode.
• Christian Lacroix will serve as art director for a forthcoming exhibit, “The Orient of Women,” at the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris. He’ll personally select 150 pieces of traditional Middle Eastern clothing and accessories for the show, which will open in February.
• Christian Louboutin: “When I started, I remember people saying, ‘Oh my God, I can’t walk in that!’ It was like, three inches — they look like kitten heels now. The low cleavage I was doing was considered too sexy, but now what I call a low cleavage is much lower. It’s really very much a mental shift. I remember doing very pointy lasts. People would say, ‘I like the shoe, but it’s too pointy.’ And then the year after, it’s fine."
• Immigration and Customs Enforcement seized about $100,000 worth of counterfeit Nike, Abercrombie & Fitch, Ed Hardy, Polo Ralph Lauren, Puma, Tommy Hilfiger, and DC Shoes merchandise from three stores in Abilene, Texas.
• Fabrics like Cupro, MicroModal, Tencel, viscose, and rayon are becoming popular with denim designers, thanks to rising cotton prices.
• Some holiday decorating tips from Simon Doonan: “If you are a Facebook addict, then your favorite hero is undoubtedly — drumroll! — YOU! So why not vomit your entire Facebook page onto your tree? Start by collaging and decoupaging the faces of your "friends" onto your holiday orbs. Sharpie their names, along with disparaging or complimentary remarks about them, onto white satin ribbons. Strew liberally. Now dismember your old discarded computers and swag your tree with colored wires, cables, circuit boards and hard drives. Glue your face to a cutout cardboard star and — voilà! — you can become your very own tree-topper.”
Beauty Marks
PLASTIC SURGERY
• According to ABC News, an increasing number of women are getting their toes shortened and having fat injected into their toe pads in order to wear high heels more comfortably.
HAIR
• Cher debuted some fiery orange hair at the London premiere of Burlesque.
• Alessandra Ambrosio wore a lot of gel in her hair at last night's screening of Blue Valentine in New York.
MAKEUP
• Photo and stylist agent Jen Brill on her hair routine: “My hair’s pretty straight so sometimes at night if I have time, I’ll put it up into two buns when it’s still wet and use Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray, spritz it, let it dry and take it down, and that’s my hairdo. I call them my ‘Party Buns.’ I’ve had friends come over before we go out and they’re like, ‘You look like Björk, you’re not going out like that.’ And I’m like, ‘No, these are my Party Buns!’
• Nooo, Taylor Swift: “"I was on a plane to Japan about two years ago and I had no makeup with me, so I went into the bathroom and I used a Sharpie to line my eyes. From that point on I started using liquid liner because I realized it was obviously pretty easy for me to do!”
NAILS
• Nail artist Luca Harino spent a day and a half creating some seriously decked out press-ons for Willow Smith’s W photo shoot. The fake nails are embellished with chains, bows, studs, and miniature teddy bears.
• According to ABC News, an increasing number of women are getting their toes shortened and having fat injected into their toe pads in order to wear high heels more comfortably.
HAIR
• Cher debuted some fiery orange hair at the London premiere of Burlesque.
• Alessandra Ambrosio wore a lot of gel in her hair at last night's screening of Blue Valentine in New York.
MAKEUP
• Photo and stylist agent Jen Brill on her hair routine: “My hair’s pretty straight so sometimes at night if I have time, I’ll put it up into two buns when it’s still wet and use Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray, spritz it, let it dry and take it down, and that’s my hairdo. I call them my ‘Party Buns.’ I’ve had friends come over before we go out and they’re like, ‘You look like Björk, you’re not going out like that.’ And I’m like, ‘No, these are my Party Buns!’
• Nooo, Taylor Swift: “"I was on a plane to Japan about two years ago and I had no makeup with me, so I went into the bathroom and I used a Sharpie to line my eyes. From that point on I started using liquid liner because I realized it was obviously pretty easy for me to do!”
NAILS
• Nail artist Luca Harino spent a day and a half creating some seriously decked out press-ons for Willow Smith’s W photo shoot. The fake nails are embellished with chains, bows, studs, and miniature teddy bears.
Monday, December 13, 2010
Michelle In Black Lace
The First Family hosted the "Christmas in Washington" celebration and concert at the National Building Museum in Washington, D.C., last night, and Michelle Obama wore a black lace dress with a flouncy, full skirt for the occasion. She pulled her hair back to show off a pair of sparkly chandelier earrings, and she finished off the outfit with simple black pumps.
Kate Middleton Wore a Modest Reiss Dress for Her Official Engagement Photos
Issa WHO? Kate Middleton wore a cream dress by British label Reiss that is no longer in stores for her official engagement portrait with her fiancé, Prince William. The Daily Mail believes the dress cost £159, or about $250, and reports it was part of the last fall collection. For the other shot, in which she flaunts her sapphire engagement ring on William's pec, she wore an embroidered blouse from Whistles that costs £95, or about $150, and was still available in the store yesterday. Her $550 Issa dress remains pretty much impossible to buy, though you can register interest in the frock on Net-a-Porter.
By choosing things that are nice but not out of this world, fashion-magazine-expensive Middleton is positioning herself not dissimilarly to Michelle Obama, who famously wore J.Crew and H&M during Barack Obama's campaign. Middleton hasn't gone as cheap as those stores yet, publicly, but she has plenty of time to frolic about in that sort of thing before the wedding upsets those Brits who don't want their tax dollars to be any part of it. She and the prince have said repeatedly that they want to make it a modest affair (hahaha), considering These Economic Times.
As for Prince William, he also wore clothes for the photo, which were designed by someone
By choosing things that are nice but not out of this world, fashion-magazine-expensive Middleton is positioning herself not dissimilarly to Michelle Obama, who famously wore J.Crew and H&M during Barack Obama's campaign. Middleton hasn't gone as cheap as those stores yet, publicly, but she has plenty of time to frolic about in that sort of thing before the wedding upsets those Brits who don't want their tax dollars to be any part of it. She and the prince have said repeatedly that they want to make it a modest affair (hahaha), considering These Economic Times.
As for Prince William, he also wore clothes for the photo, which were designed by someone
Loose Threads
• Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci cast albino model Stephen Thompson in his latest ads.
• Peter Marino, the architect who designed Dior’s new East 57th Street store, is not a fan of streaming videos of fashion shows in shops. “Nobody, nobody walks into a store and wants to see a runway video playing.” He thinks they, “are super low-end, like a Diesel store.”
• Mulberry opened a 5,400-square-foot Bond Street flagship store that showcases the brand’s accessories and ready-to-wear together for the first time.
• Nicole Farhi has named Massimo Nicosia as the new head of menswear for the brand's Nicole Farhi and Farhi by Nicole Farhi collections.
• Anna Dello Russo on her newfound popularity: “At this time, I find a new life. Really. A new life. A new energy! Something happen! Be visible! You know when you feel inside, fresh air, you want to go, you don't know why. Before this, no visible! Invisible! Like Cinderella, working like a cow!"
• The Financial Times made a list of the most influential women of the last decade, and Kate Moss, Phoebe Philo, and Anna Wintour all made the cut.
• Express launched its first-ever national TV marketing campaign, as well as a 48-page catalog and a new mobile app as part of its holiday marketing push.
• The North Face is expanding rapidly outside of the U.S., and Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart, who heads its European division, said the brand wants to be the "Nike of outdoors."
• Tory Burch doesn’t care if kids climb on the furniture in her stores. “An element of home has inspired all of my collections. And after all, I was working on the apartment when I did the first one — so the feeling of being comfortable in that environment kept coming back to me as something I very much wanted to share with the women who visited our stores. You know … Bring your children, let them roll on the sofa. You may be shopping, but why shouldn't you feel as comfortable as you feel at home?"
• Retailers seem to be opening stores again, but many of them are smaller than they would have been pre-recession.
• Peter Marino, the architect who designed Dior’s new East 57th Street store, is not a fan of streaming videos of fashion shows in shops. “Nobody, nobody walks into a store and wants to see a runway video playing.” He thinks they, “are super low-end, like a Diesel store.”
• Mulberry opened a 5,400-square-foot Bond Street flagship store that showcases the brand’s accessories and ready-to-wear together for the first time.
• Nicole Farhi has named Massimo Nicosia as the new head of menswear for the brand's Nicole Farhi and Farhi by Nicole Farhi collections.
• Anna Dello Russo on her newfound popularity: “At this time, I find a new life. Really. A new life. A new energy! Something happen! Be visible! You know when you feel inside, fresh air, you want to go, you don't know why. Before this, no visible! Invisible! Like Cinderella, working like a cow!"
• The Financial Times made a list of the most influential women of the last decade, and Kate Moss, Phoebe Philo, and Anna Wintour all made the cut.
• Express launched its first-ever national TV marketing campaign, as well as a 48-page catalog and a new mobile app as part of its holiday marketing push.
• The North Face is expanding rapidly outside of the U.S., and Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart, who heads its European division, said the brand wants to be the "Nike of outdoors."
• Tory Burch doesn’t care if kids climb on the furniture in her stores. “An element of home has inspired all of my collections. And after all, I was working on the apartment when I did the first one — so the feeling of being comfortable in that environment kept coming back to me as something I very much wanted to share with the women who visited our stores. You know … Bring your children, let them roll on the sofa. You may be shopping, but why shouldn't you feel as comfortable as you feel at home?"
• Retailers seem to be opening stores again, but many of them are smaller than they would have been pre-recession.
Thursday, December 9, 2010
My New Style Icon
Katy Perry attended last night's L.A. premiere of The Tempest in a gray lace Elie Saab gown from the spring 2010 couture collection. Perhaps this was an alternate choice for her wedding gown, which was also gray Elie Saab couture. She and Russell Brand color-coordinated their outfits right down to his pointy-toed boots.
Hummmmm, Me Likes Naked!
Tom Ford once wrote an entire feature story for British GQ Style about how the world should not fear penis imagery but embrace it. "Imagine … if our suits were entirely designed to show off our penises. Imagine if contemporary fashion demanded that you left your cock hanging outside your trousers, with perhaps just the head trussed up in a tiny pouch like a dick bra. Everyone would see our cocks all the time, in the same way that fashion features women's breasts," he wailed of society's double standard. So his latest pontifications on nakedness comes as no shock.
"I spend most of my time at home naked. You know, most people actually look better nude. We are all one harmonious colour, with a symmetry and an innate elegance. Fat women almost always look better without the constraint and lumpy pinching of clothes, all the straps and elastic squeezing and sucking.
"We are the only animal that wears clothes, and that can't just be because dogs can't do up buttons."
Actually that's not quite accurate — people do up their dogs' buttons all the time.
"I spend most of my time at home naked. You know, most people actually look better nude. We are all one harmonious colour, with a symmetry and an innate elegance. Fat women almost always look better without the constraint and lumpy pinching of clothes, all the straps and elastic squeezing and sucking.
"We are the only animal that wears clothes, and that can't just be because dogs can't do up buttons."
Actually that's not quite accurate — people do up their dogs' buttons all the time.
John Galliano in NYC
John Galliano just made a trip to New York to reopen the 57th Street Dior flagship, which was just renovated and therefore requires a few parties. (Galliano doesn't drink, but he says he likes cake.) In a most delightful long interview with WWD, ostensibly about the renovations, Galliano explains that he must spend part of his time in New York meeting with suppliers, which he won't name, in places as far-flung as Brooklyn. Though he must get treated well everywhere, being John Galliano, he likes it over there: "[I]t’s worth it because when you get there, you’re really focused and they look after you." Galliano was also enthusiastic about a young designer he wears named Paul Harnden, who will probably blow up in some capacity now that Galliano gushed over him in the story. Yet Galliano hasn't been able to track him down — a difficulty one might be tempted to attribute to Galliano's ignorance of technology.
The designer tells WWD that he "really shouldn't" have made the trip since he's working on haute couture and menswear. "But we had a great meeting yesterday in the room. I got all my men’s wear stuff on the walls and the haute couture’s on the side and then we’re on the phone," he says. "It doesn’t matter where you are now because of all this kind of machinery." One assumes "machinery" refers to the devices you wild people reading this have your hands on right now! Galliano also pontificated on this machinery as it relates to shopping.
WWD: To find the good parts and show them off?
J.G.: To find someone who knows the collection. Don’t ever go with a girlfriend! Leave her in the car park. Because she’s only shopping for herself and her boyfriend — not for you. The last person she’s thinking of is you. It’s the same thing with boyfriends. Don’t go shopping with boyfriends. They’re only thinking of themselves, too. Place your trust in the manager, the guy who knows the brand, who will tell you the story about the finish or these little loops and blah, blah, blah, blah. And choose somewhere where the light’s not too bright. And enjoy it. Enjoy!
WWD: Oh, the joys of shopping!
J.G.: Oh, retail therapy is just the best thing! You can use all that modern-day equipment and stuff, but it’s a bit cold. I like to go in.
WWD: Oh, you mean buying online?
J.G.: Online shopping — oh, no. I didn’t even know what e-commerce was until last week. I like the experience. I like to feel the fur, to smell the tweed. I like the service. I love that you go into Hermès wearing your trainers and they still say, ‘Oh Mr. Galliano, may we brush your shoes?’
But he does have a vague idea of this Twitter business.
WWD: You dance. But do you tweet?
J.G.: No, I get people to do it for me. When I was here last, I was only here for four or five days and there were 30,000 calls or whatever you call them.
WWD: Tweets.
J.G.: Yeah, there were 30,000. They had nothing to do with Dior, nothing to do with [the company] John Galliano. Just what I look like when I leave the hotel, or people had seen me in a restaurant or going to the gym. Thirty thousand! That’s a lot. I could advertise on that site. I think we need to exploit that, don’t you?
Well, if he can go from not knowing about e-commerce until a few days ago to wondering how to monetize Twitter, no wonder he's so successful.
The designer tells WWD that he "really shouldn't" have made the trip since he's working on haute couture and menswear. "But we had a great meeting yesterday in the room. I got all my men’s wear stuff on the walls and the haute couture’s on the side and then we’re on the phone," he says. "It doesn’t matter where you are now because of all this kind of machinery." One assumes "machinery" refers to the devices you wild people reading this have your hands on right now! Galliano also pontificated on this machinery as it relates to shopping.
WWD: To find the good parts and show them off?
J.G.: To find someone who knows the collection. Don’t ever go with a girlfriend! Leave her in the car park. Because she’s only shopping for herself and her boyfriend — not for you. The last person she’s thinking of is you. It’s the same thing with boyfriends. Don’t go shopping with boyfriends. They’re only thinking of themselves, too. Place your trust in the manager, the guy who knows the brand, who will tell you the story about the finish or these little loops and blah, blah, blah, blah. And choose somewhere where the light’s not too bright. And enjoy it. Enjoy!
WWD: Oh, the joys of shopping!
J.G.: Oh, retail therapy is just the best thing! You can use all that modern-day equipment and stuff, but it’s a bit cold. I like to go in.
WWD: Oh, you mean buying online?
J.G.: Online shopping — oh, no. I didn’t even know what e-commerce was until last week. I like the experience. I like to feel the fur, to smell the tweed. I like the service. I love that you go into Hermès wearing your trainers and they still say, ‘Oh Mr. Galliano, may we brush your shoes?’
But he does have a vague idea of this Twitter business.
WWD: You dance. But do you tweet?
J.G.: No, I get people to do it for me. When I was here last, I was only here for four or five days and there were 30,000 calls or whatever you call them.
WWD: Tweets.
J.G.: Yeah, there were 30,000. They had nothing to do with Dior, nothing to do with [the company] John Galliano. Just what I look like when I leave the hotel, or people had seen me in a restaurant or going to the gym. Thirty thousand! That’s a lot. I could advertise on that site. I think we need to exploit that, don’t you?
Well, if he can go from not knowing about e-commerce until a few days ago to wondering how to monetize Twitter, no wonder he's so successful.
Loose Threads
• For his pre-fall collection, Jason Wu was inspired by the street-fashion photos of the Séeberger brothers, who captured Paris society of the thirties.
• Rebecca Minkoff confessed that she once stood in Union Square handing out postcards and telling strangers to “check out this designer Rebecca Minkoff, she's really hot.”
• Juicy Couture co-founders Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor have been dropping hints about their next venture, which will start when their deal with Liz Claiborne, Inc. expires in a few months. “It will reflect the way we dress now,” said Skaist-Levy. “We have outgrown our track suits and grown up.”
• Jessica Stam was reportedly seen making out with college lacrosse player Charlie Wiggins at a Sunglass Hut event yesterday.
• Donna Karan is opening a 3,000-square-foot Collection store in Las Vegas, at the city’s upscale Crystals at CityCenter retail development.
• Hubert de Givenchy is working on a fashion exhibition for the Château de Haroué, an eighteenth-century castle that was built and is still owned by the Beauvau-Craon family in France’s Lorraine region.
• Susan Sarandon and Geena Davis shot a Thelma & Louise twentieth-anniversary photo spread for Vanity Fair.
• Jason Wu is now making his popular “Miss Wu” bag in large and mini sizes.
• Molly Sims donated diapers to Alice + Olivia’s Holiday Toy Drive Party.
• Rebecca Minkoff confessed that she once stood in Union Square handing out postcards and telling strangers to “check out this designer Rebecca Minkoff, she's really hot.”
• Juicy Couture co-founders Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor have been dropping hints about their next venture, which will start when their deal with Liz Claiborne, Inc. expires in a few months. “It will reflect the way we dress now,” said Skaist-Levy. “We have outgrown our track suits and grown up.”
• Jessica Stam was reportedly seen making out with college lacrosse player Charlie Wiggins at a Sunglass Hut event yesterday.
• Donna Karan is opening a 3,000-square-foot Collection store in Las Vegas, at the city’s upscale Crystals at CityCenter retail development.
• Hubert de Givenchy is working on a fashion exhibition for the Château de Haroué, an eighteenth-century castle that was built and is still owned by the Beauvau-Craon family in France’s Lorraine region.
• Susan Sarandon and Geena Davis shot a Thelma & Louise twentieth-anniversary photo spread for Vanity Fair.
• Jason Wu is now making his popular “Miss Wu” bag in large and mini sizes.
• Molly Sims donated diapers to Alice + Olivia’s Holiday Toy Drive Party.
Ohhhhhh, Naomi.
In the months following the death of Alexander McQueen, it seemed like the designer's garments could not be pried from Naomi Campbell's body. Naturally she wore McQueen to the British Fashion Awards last night, custom-designed by the label's new designer, Sarah Burton. Naomi thanked Burton in her acceptance speech for her Special Recognition Award, explaining:
"I got off the plane from New York and she'd promised to make me something but she didn't know what I wanted so she'd made me two!"
Is it any wonder the woman made two, when, in the same speech, Naomi also thanked her "partner," referring to Vladimir Doronin, "who puts up with a wild, wild woman!"?
"I got off the plane from New York and she'd promised to make me something but she didn't know what I wanted so she'd made me two!"
Is it any wonder the woman made two, when, in the same speech, Naomi also thanked her "partner," referring to Vladimir Doronin, "who puts up with a wild, wild woman!"?
Saturday, December 4, 2010
First and 10
It’s really just a case of simple math.
10 spots.
For a 10-course tasting menu.
Divided by only one seating per night.
To the power of cocoa-butter-poached lobster.
Equals the kind of night we can get behind.
Put down your #2 pencil and enter Compose, a new restaurant in existence for one purpose only: to usher you through a different omakase multicourse culinary journey every night of the week, starting this Friday.
Once you’ve secured your golden ticket, given chef Nick Curtin a heads-up on your dietary preferences (you’re into waffles for dinner this month) and pocketed your favorite semi-illegal wet-naps, the only thing standing between you and your rightful spot at the coveted U-shaped marble bar is a pair of 100-year-old etched doors. Thankfully, they open just like brand-new doors.
Now, it’s important that you don’t get too comfortable, because over the next two-and-a-half hours, your services will be called on from time to time. You may find yourself selecting wines from an in-house iPad. Or entering into deep discussion with your bartender, as you two create a personal “dialogue-based” cocktail while he hand-shaves your ice (and hand-makes your tiny umbrella, should the libation take a turn for the tropical).
And as you watch your foie gras, jamón ibérico steak and aforementioned cocoa-butter-poached lobster make the short trip from the open kitchen to your counter place setting, you’ll inevitably be left with one persistent thought.
Poor, poor number 11.
Nina Garcia Had Her Baby!
While most of us were having food babies this weekend, Nina Garcia gave birth to an actual baby boy! She tweeted this morning: "Delighted to announce that over the wknd we welcomed 8lb13oz Alexander David Conrod into our home! Baby is doing great & Lucas [Garcia's first son] is thrilled!
Fashion’s Night Out to Return Next Year
Though Cathy Horyn was hoping Fashion's Night Out would end after its splashy second year running in September, it will unsurprisingly happen again on September 8, 2011, for its third year in a row. Details on next year's effort are sparse, and it's unclear if Vogue will stage another public fashion show around the Lincoln Center fountain starring a busload of supermodels to hype the night of drunken shopping.
But the press release states that "next year’s event will once again expose shoppers to new stores and products through events and promotions." Also: celebrities doing gimmicky things! Free booze (and canapés, if you're lucky)! And ever joyous traffic jams and fights over cabs! Riots over Jessica Alba or some other such actress! Vogue.com's blog post on the news informs:
While details on what to expect are still emerging, one thing is for sure: After putting together the largest public fashion show in New York City history last September, there is no telling what you can expect this year. We can promise, however, that across the globe, from Brooklyn to Berlin, it will be a night to remember—and all in support of all aspects of the fashion industry.
The fashion industry needs you. Reject the haters, embrace, and give back.
But the press release states that "next year’s event will once again expose shoppers to new stores and products through events and promotions." Also: celebrities doing gimmicky things! Free booze (and canapés, if you're lucky)! And ever joyous traffic jams and fights over cabs! Riots over Jessica Alba or some other such actress! Vogue.com's blog post on the news informs:
While details on what to expect are still emerging, one thing is for sure: After putting together the largest public fashion show in New York City history last September, there is no telling what you can expect this year. We can promise, however, that across the globe, from Brooklyn to Berlin, it will be a night to remember—and all in support of all aspects of the fashion industry.
The fashion industry needs you. Reject the haters, embrace, and give back.
Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley Have Speaking Parts on Diddy’s New Album
P. Diddy's new album Last Train to Paris comes out December 14, but you can have an exclusive first listen of it on the website that obviously best goes with that album: Vogue.com! In fact, Vogue has been behind this album from the very beginning, and even ran a fashion editorial of Diddy with Natalia Vodianova in the February issue, also called "Last Train to Paris." Apparently the whole album is fashion-inspired, and industry greats like Talley, Marc Jacobs, and Isaac Mizrahi lent their voices to spoken-word pieces that run between songs. Even Anna Wintour chimes in at the beginning of Track 2, "1st Place Loser", saying only: "This is Anna Wintour from Vogue magazine. You are now listening to the Last Train to Paris."
Talley explains:
Inspired by his addiction to style and the fashion worlds from New York to Paris, Diddy’s new album, Last Train to Paris (to be released December 14), is a brilliant fusion of stream of consciousness and beats that bring to mind the broken cadences of avant-garde jazz. During Fashion Week last year, he sent out the call via e-mail and voice mail to high-fashion friends to come to his studio to participate in the record. I was somewhere doing what I usually do—previewing a collection or sitting around on the fourth floor of Manolo Blahnik’s midtown shoe emporium—when I received the invitation. Rushing to his studio, I thought about what I would say on the album, which inspired his February 2010 Vogue fashion shoot with Natalia Vodianova, photographed by Annie Leibovitz and styled by Grace Coddington, in which he appeared with the swagger and elegance of Cary Grant in a gorgeous shawl-collared camel double-breasted coat by Tom Ford.
Talley ended up doing a reading by James Baldwin "and Diddy respected it enough to leave it intact." You can click on the first track at Vogue.com to hear that. Then Diddy comes on talking about how he "never knew love could feel like this." Neither did we. Diddy + Vogue = love!
Talley explains:
Inspired by his addiction to style and the fashion worlds from New York to Paris, Diddy’s new album, Last Train to Paris (to be released December 14), is a brilliant fusion of stream of consciousness and beats that bring to mind the broken cadences of avant-garde jazz. During Fashion Week last year, he sent out the call via e-mail and voice mail to high-fashion friends to come to his studio to participate in the record. I was somewhere doing what I usually do—previewing a collection or sitting around on the fourth floor of Manolo Blahnik’s midtown shoe emporium—when I received the invitation. Rushing to his studio, I thought about what I would say on the album, which inspired his February 2010 Vogue fashion shoot with Natalia Vodianova, photographed by Annie Leibovitz and styled by Grace Coddington, in which he appeared with the swagger and elegance of Cary Grant in a gorgeous shawl-collared camel double-breasted coat by Tom Ford.
Talley ended up doing a reading by James Baldwin "and Diddy respected it enough to leave it intact." You can click on the first track at Vogue.com to hear that. Then Diddy comes on talking about how he "never knew love could feel like this." Neither did we. Diddy + Vogue = love!
Beauty Marks
MAKEUP
• Makeup artist Judy Chin on the dramatic looks she created for Black Swan: “Darren Aronofsky I felt that he was looking for something dramatic and visually striking, so all of the intensity was focused in the eyes. Margie Durand realized that there were elements of our beautiful set design that should play a role in our makeup. Thus, the delicate silver branches that played across the swan’s faces came to be. The ensemble swans and the Swan Queen are delicate and romantic with a soft pink lip color, whereas the Black Swan is dark, sharp, and angular.”
• Natalie Portman wore bright pink lipstick to the annual Gotham Independent Film Awards.
FRAGRANCE
• Judith Leiber is launching a new fragrance, called Judith Leiber Night.
HAIR
• Frédéric Fekkai was appointed as a Knight of France’s National Order of Merit.
• Michelle Williams dyed her pixie cut an even-brighter shade of blonde.
SKIN
• Camay soap is now sold mainly online, but its aging fans don’t trust the Internet.
• Makeup artist Judy Chin on the dramatic looks she created for Black Swan: “Darren Aronofsky I felt that he was looking for something dramatic and visually striking, so all of the intensity was focused in the eyes. Margie Durand realized that there were elements of our beautiful set design that should play a role in our makeup. Thus, the delicate silver branches that played across the swan’s faces came to be. The ensemble swans and the Swan Queen are delicate and romantic with a soft pink lip color, whereas the Black Swan is dark, sharp, and angular.”
• Natalie Portman wore bright pink lipstick to the annual Gotham Independent Film Awards.
FRAGRANCE
• Judith Leiber is launching a new fragrance, called Judith Leiber Night.
HAIR
• Frédéric Fekkai was appointed as a Knight of France’s National Order of Merit.
• Michelle Williams dyed her pixie cut an even-brighter shade of blonde.
SKIN
• Camay soap is now sold mainly online, but its aging fans don’t trust the Internet.
Loose Threads
• Hearst is reportedly interested in buying a controlling stake in Elle, whose current owner, the French conglomerate Lagardère, announced that they’re exploring partnerships with other magazines.
• Salvatore Ferragamo’s Red Carpet project allows shoppers to design their own shoes by choosing from six styles and 23 colored satins. They’ll also have the option of monogramming them.
• Maryna Linchuk pats her head with some fake gold hands on the cover of Turkish Vogue’s December issue, which was photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth.
• Natalie Portman wore one of Lanvin’s sold-out H&M dresses at the Gotham Independent Film Awards.
• Kirsten Dunst is auctioning off her favorite purse — a navy Sofia Coppola for Louis Vuitton handbag — stuffed with designer beauty products (unused, we hope), an Isabel Marant wallet, and a Bulgari ring, to benefit children’s charity Art of Elysium.
• Everyone is buying outerwear, thanks to plunging temperatures.
• New York Times critical shopper Cintra Wilson visited Soigne K, a new boutique devoted to Indian designers, where she was puzzled by the window display. “On one side: clumpy matte-gray sequined leggings. On the other side: a geometrical minidress that I thought had been ingeniously wrought out of tri-colored lentils as a kind of post-colonial dialogue of equilibrium, perhaps describing a parity of esteem between lentils and sequins. (The ladies in the shop laughed their asafetidas off about that one. No, they’re just beads, they giggled, as I skulked oh-so-blondly over to a rack to try to find a funeral pyre to throw myself onto.)”
• Christian Louboutin had a party at Provocateur to celebrate being named "Person of the Year" by Footwear News. He almost cried while giving his acceptance speech, explaining, "I'm sorry, French don't do speeches."
• Maison Martin Margiela is decorating the Maison Champs-Elysées hotel in Paris.
• Cathy Horyn visited the Beijing couturier Guo Pei.
• American Apparel’s ads are illustrated now.
• Salvatore Ferragamo’s Red Carpet project allows shoppers to design their own shoes by choosing from six styles and 23 colored satins. They’ll also have the option of monogramming them.
• Maryna Linchuk pats her head with some fake gold hands on the cover of Turkish Vogue’s December issue, which was photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth.
• Natalie Portman wore one of Lanvin’s sold-out H&M dresses at the Gotham Independent Film Awards.
• Kirsten Dunst is auctioning off her favorite purse — a navy Sofia Coppola for Louis Vuitton handbag — stuffed with designer beauty products (unused, we hope), an Isabel Marant wallet, and a Bulgari ring, to benefit children’s charity Art of Elysium.
• Everyone is buying outerwear, thanks to plunging temperatures.
• New York Times critical shopper Cintra Wilson visited Soigne K, a new boutique devoted to Indian designers, where she was puzzled by the window display. “On one side: clumpy matte-gray sequined leggings. On the other side: a geometrical minidress that I thought had been ingeniously wrought out of tri-colored lentils as a kind of post-colonial dialogue of equilibrium, perhaps describing a parity of esteem between lentils and sequins. (The ladies in the shop laughed their asafetidas off about that one. No, they’re just beads, they giggled, as I skulked oh-so-blondly over to a rack to try to find a funeral pyre to throw myself onto.)”
• Christian Louboutin had a party at Provocateur to celebrate being named "Person of the Year" by Footwear News. He almost cried while giving his acceptance speech, explaining, "I'm sorry, French don't do speeches."
• Maison Martin Margiela is decorating the Maison Champs-Elysées hotel in Paris.
• Cathy Horyn visited the Beijing couturier Guo Pei.
• American Apparel’s ads are illustrated now.
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